Category Archives: Oregon

Beaches along the Oregon Coast

The Oregon Coast has been on my bucket list of places to experience ever since I moved to the Bay Area almost 18 years ago. Over the years we never made the time for the drive opting for California destinations that were only a few hours away. If we felt like spending a day at the ocean we would drive to Santa Cruz or Monterrey, Tahoe was the solution for a dose of mountain beauty, and for granite monoliths or high meadows we would go to Yosemite. But now, we are finally going to make the famous Oregon Coast drive. When I think of the Pacific Coast, beaches of driftwood and rugged cliffs dotted with lighthouses come to mind. This is classic Oregon Coast and it is our next destination!

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Goonies house

Our first stop was the little town of Astoria. We didn’t spend much time here but had lunch along the pier and spent some time walking and taking photographs of the area. I met a biker touring the US from Ireland. Over the past few days we noticed that there were a lot of touring bikes on the roads. I was curious about the routes, where they stayed, how many miles they rode a day, etc. He told me all about his epic adventure of circumnavigating the US by bike. He averages about 60 miles a day on a hybrid bike fully loaded with camping gear. What an adventure! I think I would want a support team to carry my gear and have camp set up at the end of the day with a hot meal prepared for me! Below are Darryl’s cool pics taken as I chatted.

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Boat-reflection

After registering for our campsite at Fort Stevens we went to see the Iredale shipwreck which ran aground in 1906. The sunset was beautiful with the silhouette of the shipwreck in the foreground. Our first evening walking along the coast was picture perfect.

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We spent the first part of the next morning exploring Battery Russell on Fort Stevens. There were the remains of a military bunker first put into service in 1904 until deactivation in December of 1944. It was the only mainland military installation that was attacked during WWII. A Japanese submarine fired upon the fort on June 21, 1942 damaging only the backstop of the fort’s baseball field and a power line.DSC04226

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Coast along Fort Stevens

Our original Oregon coast plan was to drive the 350 miles in two days since we had to get to Grass Valley, CA by the end of the week. There are only a few dates that we need to meet on this trip and this was our first deadline. By the end of our first day we made it a whopping 87 miles from Fort Stevens to Pacific City. Our timing was off a little but we had a spectacular day walking along the beaches, scrambling along the rocks and admiring the tide pools.

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Indian Beach
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We loved the tide pools at Indian beach!

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We stayed in Pacific City where I had my first experience with food poisoning. The whole experience at The Pelican Pub & Brewery was sub-par. From the start to the bitter end when half way through my meal I immediately felt ill and had to leave to rest in the car. The host at the campsite told us that the restaurant has a bad reputatIon amongst the locals as being over priced and poor quality. Epic bad choice for a restaurant!

Fortunately, I felt better the next day and we continued on down the coast. This would be a very long day of driving and against our rule of driving only 4 hours, or 5 tops, a day. We’ll see how this math works as we get further along our journey!

As we were driving through Lincoln City I spotted four old Land Cruisers for sale on the other side of the road. Darryl loves these cars so we made a U-turn to take a look since it’s unusual to see four different Land Cruiser models just sitting alongside the road for sale. What’s the story?

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When we pulled up we saw someone walking down the gravel road behind the property. We asked him about the cars and he told us that they refurbish the Land Cruisers and that he has a bunch more that are completed or in various stages of the refurbishing process just up the lane. “Are you interested in taking a look?” Do you need to ask?! YES!

The shop is Restored FJ40 and their workmanship is beautiful. They walked us through the restoration process which starts with a full dismantling of the vehicle to send off the parts to be dipped in a wash to remove the paint then a complete rebuild. They use all OEM parts and then for the older models they might do some custom upgrades as requested by the purchaser such as updated shocks and suspension, conversion to left wheel drive, adding automatic steering, converting manual transmission to automatic, etc. Who knows, after the trip Darryl might be trading in the Subaru for a refurbed Landie! If you’re into this stuff, check them out. You’ll be waiting almost a year for your car but looks like it’s worth the wait!

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This beauty is all ready for its new home in Pittsburg.

Farther along the coast was Newport, OR where we stopped for lunch and to stretch our legs a bit. Our time along the Oregon Coast was quickly drawing to an end. We spent our last night at Alfred A Loeb State Park and then had to boogie on to Grass Valley, CA to pick up something very special! Stay tuned!!

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Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport, OR
Farther along the coast was Newport, OR where we stopped for lunch and to stretch our legs a bit.
Newport, OR marina

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Off to Portland!

We love waterfalls but evidently so does everybody else! The route we expected to follow into Portland was along old Hwy 30 where we could stop and admire the dozens of waterfalls along the way. Unfortunately, we don’t have a very high tolerance for crowds, packed highways and traffic backed up for miles waiting for a handful of openings at the overcrowded parking lots next to the more popular falls. So we didn’t make it to all of the falls that we wanted to see. We’ll leave that for another trip. We did stop at Wahkeena Falls, the most popular of the falls along this route. There is a paved path that takes you to the top of the falls which took us about 45 minutes at a brisk pace. The gradient was very moderate but just enough to get my heart rate up to where I could consider this a light workout, very light. Once at the top we took a few minutes to admire the view and gaze down at the crowds below then snap a few photos and make our way back down.

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View from top of Wahkeena Falls
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Horsetail Falls

We stopped at Horsetail Falls and then pulled over to make ourselves a light lunch before continuing to Portland. This would be our first time to Portland and we were looking forward to eating out at some very good restaurants. We met a couple from Portland during our stay in Hood River and they gave us a list of restaurants that we should try. We were told that the Yelp reviews for Portland were spot on! Finally, I have a shot at picking out some winners! Our first stop was “Por Que No”, a taco stand that is so popular that the line runs down the block. We were early for dinner so we thought we had a shot at getting in with no wait but the line was already down the block. We decided to go for the second place on the list, “Apizza Scholls” which serves pizza in only one size and that’s a large. The pizza was amazing! To me, the secret to a good pizza is all about the crust and a tasty sauce. They hit it out of the park on both of these points! They set the bar for me as far as pizza goes. Darryl is still a die-hard NY Pizza sort of guy so it maybe ranked up in his top 5 pizza places.

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Sausage & Mama pizza (house made sausage plus Mama Lil’s Kick Butt Peppers)

Later that night we walked to Voodoo Donuts. I’m not into donuts but we went just because we heard from friends that Voo Doo Donuts are the best and it’s ranked up there as one of the top 10 places to go when in Portland in many of the travel articles that we read. I can tell you that it’s definitely a popular local spot. We didn’t go until sometime after midnight and there was a line out the door and around the corner! There were some interesting choices like the maple bacon donut, Orangatang donut, and the loop donut which is covered in fruit loops but I wasn’t so venturous sticking to a Kelly’s Jelly Donut which was filled with raspberry jelly. My donut standard is Dunkin’ Donuts and it’s a toss-up between Voo Doo and Dunkin’ Donuts for me. If you love donuts, check them out and don’t let my neutral feelings about the place influence your decision! 🙂

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We spent a day visiting the gardens around Portland’s huge Washington Park. At the Japanese Gardens I was able to catch my one and only glimpse of Mount Hood.

Sand & stone garden (karesansui) which celebrates the "beauty of blank space".
Sand & stone or karesansui garden which celebrates the “beauty of blank space”.
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Mount Hood makes an appearance far off in the distance.
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International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park.

Portland is a city of bridges connecting its NE & NW Portland to its SE & SW districts. There are at least eleven bridges spanning the Willamette River. I loved strolling along the waterfront admiring the variety of bridge designs.

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Hawthorne Bridge which is a truss bridge with a vertical lift built in 1911.

We made it to Powell’s Books which was heaven for me! I love spending time in book stores, leafing through books and becoming overwhelmed with the number of great books that I have yet to discover. I don’t know if I’ll ever get accustomed to the changes in book culture influenced by technology and the advent of digital books. I love to feel the book in my hands and turning the pages as I get lost in a story. Because of the limited room that we have in our vehicle, I have limited the number of hard copy books that I have with me on this trip, grudgingly relying upon the digital format. We did buy an audio book, “A Thousand Splendid Suns” by Khaled Hosseini. I loved his first book, “The Kite Runner” and I’m looking forward to getting lost in another of his tales.

We spent most of our time walking through the city and enjoying the street life. There were children playing in the fire hydrants, marching bands playing in one of the squares and far too many young people begging on the street.

We gave her a "donation" to take her photo.
We gave her a “donation” to take her photo.

This last one really had us confused. There was an unusually large number of homeless youths sitting on the street corners begging for a few cents or hanging out in groups on the lawns sitting on their sleeping bags passing the day away. I’ve seen the homeless on the streets of San Francisco, throughout the Bay Area and on the streets in my hometown of Davenport, Iowa but never this many in their late teens and early 20’s. I wonder about their stories and worry for their future.

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We had the most spectacular meal at “The Screen Door” restaurant in Northeast Portland. We started out with a spinach & beet salad that could be a meal of its own. For the main course I ordered the amazing crispy fried buttermilk-battered chicken and Darryl had the lowcountry shrimp & grits. My chicken was amazingly moist with the most spectacular crispy coating. Usually the crispy coating is greasy and tastes like fried salty flour but this was tasty, crisp and not oily in the least. No wonder they get the highest ratings for their fried chicken and waffle brunch special! We ended with an amazing blueberry cornbread cobbler. The cobbler didn’t last long enough for a photo. The only downside to this experience is that I don’t believe that I’ll ever have fried chicken this good anyplace else. They set the bar, now I just need to figure out how to prepare the dish for myself!

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Hood River , Oregon

It was a rainy drive to Hood River but that didn’t put a damper on the scenery. Sometimes the rain makes everything more dramatic with the stormy clouds and grey textures added to the vast landscapes we are driving through.

We arrived sometime after 9 in the evening and we were ready for some dinner. It’s been hit or miss with the restaurants that we pick even with the help of Yelp or TripAdvisor. We still haven’t figured out the magic formula to identifying a decent restaurant. Sometimes the highly rated restaurants are good and sometimes they’re not, sometimes the “fancy” looking restaurants are good and sometimes they’re not, sometimes the pricey restaurants are good and, well, you get the picture. This night we picked a good one! We’re always excited to find great food at a reasonable cost that’s prepared well and is scrumdilliicious. Solstice Wood Fire Pizza did not disappoint. For the record, this had high yelp reviews, a comfortable atmosphere and great views on the water and and we didn’t break the bank to pay the bill.

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Grilled shrimp on a bed of tabouli and sashimi grade tuna with tzatziki sauce

The rained continued through most of our time in Hood River so we splurged for a hotel rather than sleeping in a tent every night. We didn’t want the ordeal of folding up a wet tent every morning and then set it up in the rain at night. It was really nice to sleep in a real bed and have a bathroom nearby. This camping really makes you appreciate the little comforts of home!

The weather mostly cleared up during the day making for a pleasant afternoon taking in the sights and people watching along the Columbia River. We spent a bit of time watching the wind surfers along the river. Every day that we were here the area was packed with wind surfers of all ages and abilities.

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They start them young here!

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We dropped by the Hood River museum to learn about the history of the area. They had some exhibits about the logging industry which has been their primary industry for years. I always find it interesting to learn about the local characters that make a mark on a town. These are the ones whose names I see on the map next to streets, mountains, lakes, rivers and other such landmarks named after them. Darryl recognized the name of the local entrepreneur, Lurh Jensen, from his fishing days as a youth. He fished with lures manufactured by this company out of Hood River. The museum had another exhibit telling of a darker past of bigotry against their fellow Japanese neighbors during the war years which was also rampant across the nation at that time. All of their exhibits were informative set against a backdrop of individual stories of the local townspeople of the time.

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After spending so much time in the more arid parts of the country, Hood River was a welcome change. Everywhere we look it’s green and it even “smells” green! There were storm clouds always on the horizon and a slight chill in the air. We hiked out to Tamanawas Falls in the Mount Hood National Forest. The trail passes through a beautiful forest alongside a stream fed by the falls. I was reminded how out of shape I have gotten as this group of teens went running past me along the trail. Once we have access to showers on a regular basis we’ll get back into running. For now, I’ll just have to enjoy taking in my surroundings at a more leisurely pace.

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An afternoon at Crater Lake

After our day at the Horse Expo we returned to the originally planned route to Oregon. We arrived late in Ashland, Oregon which is just north of the California border. We stayed long enough to get some rest at the Columbia Hotel in downtown Ashland. We were pleasantly surprised with how charming the hotel was. I had my doubts when I saw that we would be sharing a bathroom with the other guests but our stay there was great.

We had breakfast at Morning Glory restaurant, again. Darryl found the restaurant the last time we visited Ashland. Why try something new when we know this will be excellent?!

Our stay in Ashland was short since we wanted to get on the road to see some new territory and today that would be Crater Lake. I spoke with the National Forest ranger to find out where there was dispersed camping near Crater Lake. He recommended Union Creek just off of highway 62 near Prospect, OR. This place was recommended by the couple we met at Boulder Beach campground in Lake Mead so we decided to make that our destination.

I haven't felt this small in years!
I haven’t felt this small in years!
Enjoying the solitude.
Enjoying the solitude.

The next morning we drove to Crater Lake and spent the day enjoying the views. There was still snow on the ground and it was a bit chilly out. I was expecting to see cabins and boats around the lake similar to Lake Tahoe so it was a surprise to see the lake practically untouched by development. There is a small boat dock on the lake that can take people to the island at the center but you can’t see it from most of the viewpoints. We hiked down to the boat dock at lake’s edge and watched the younger crowd jump into the lake’s chilly waters. We preferred staying warm and dry!

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180° view of Crater Lake

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